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 climbing mount hood - south side route the nike mountaineering team may 21, 2001 sorry, but this page will load very slowly on dial-up!
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click photo to enlarge The team poses before departing Timberline Lodge at 3:00 in the morning. click photo to enlarge  Mount Hood creates a shadow on the horizon. click photo to enlarge  The team poses in front of the shrinking Mount Hood shadow at 9,500 feet. click photo to enlarge  A gorgeous view of Crater Rock and the Hogsback from inside the crater. click photo to enlarge  A shot of West Crater Rim from the Hogsback. click photo to enlarge  The Central Oregon Cascade mountains tower South of Mount Hood. click photo to enlarge  The first rope teams begin ascending the Hogsback to the 11,239 foot summit. click photo to enlarge  A triumphant team poses at the 11,239 foot summit. click photo to enlarge  Matt and the Washington Cascades at the summit. click photo to enlarge  The unique looking west face of the summit. click photo to enlarge  A look back at the climb route from the summit. |
Story Contents: 1. The Nike Mountaineering Program 2. Training and Learning 3. 2001 Nike Mountaineering Team 4. Prelude to the Climb 5. Weather Conditions 6. The Long Slog to Palmer 7. Next Stop, Crater Rock 8. Entering the Crater 9. Hanging on the Hogsback 10. The Ascent to the Summit 11. Reaching the Highest Point in Oregon 12. Descent and Celebration View the climbing route! View Mount Hood in detail! The Nike Mountaineering Program: Each year since 1994, Nike sponsors a program to teach mountaineering basics and take 10 employee climbers (with 2 additional leaders) on a trek to the 11,239 foot summit of Mount Hood. Led by a Mazama guide and long time Beaverton school teacher & coach named Lee Stevenson, the program is also a fundraiser for the Beaverton Education Foundation. Each year, Lee gives his time and energy to the program for free while requesting reasonable donations from the climbing students. (The cost of the donations are far cheaper than any guide service on the mountain.) In 2001, the program raised nearly $900 for the Foundation. Of course, the climbing students are not there just to support a worthy cause. They're interested in learning what it takes to get themselves to the top of the tallest point in Oregon! It takes a specific knowledge of mountaineering gear and climbing techniques, plus good physical conditioning, to scale a Cascade Range volcano such as 11,239 foot Mount Hood. -- Top of Page -- Training and Learning: Prospective team members must attend 3 classroom sessions and 1 mountain snow practice before being cleared to join the climbing party. Lee smartly makes this non-negotiable, as the knowledge gained during these sessions are key to the safety and enjoyment of the entire team. Plus, it gives him several opportunities to hammer home the difficulty behind the sport of mountaineering - especially in the Cascade Range, where weather and snow conditions seemingly can change each hour. The classroom sessions provide the novices a chance to learn from experienced climbers, like Lee and Nike employee Steve Rollins. Topics include the mountaineering equipment, such as "summit packs", ice axes and crampons (see examples). Other topics, include climbing techniques, the proper use of tools, the climbing route on Mount Hood and avalanche awareness. One of the most important subjects is conditioning... Climbing a volcano is much more than a hike. The Cascade Range volcanoes are rather steep and are covered in snow and ice well into the summer. The mountains are also very tall and Mount Hood boasts a summit well over 11,000 feet above sea level and an elevation gain of 5,240 feet. This kind of sport requires endurance and good aerobic and physical shape. Lee emphasizes this consistently through the classes and - with this prodding and the world class Nike sports centers - the students have no excuse for being out of shape. Finally, the most dedicated students head to Mount Hood for a weekend snow practice. The students dress in mountaineering gear and learn how to properly climb - and fall - on snow and ice. Learning how to fall and "self arrest" (stopping the fall using your ice axe) are crucial to mountaineering skills. Climbers do not have much time to think when they fall on the steep and/or icy slopes of a mountain, so self arrest techniques must be learned in controlled conditions before the climb. The snow practice also gives the prospective team members a chance to see what the alpine altitude does to your lungs. The few dedicated students that make it through the 4 sessions graduate to the title of "team member" and prepare for the coming climb. -- Top of Page -- 2001 Nike Mountaineering Team: The ultimate makeup of the 2001 team was an unique mix of people, with employees from all parts of Nike - including one from the European Headquarters! Led by Lee Stevenson and his Mazama friend Stacey Combs, the team consisted of Bob Baca, John Bailey, Marc Deruijter, Cindy Gehrts, Ed Kaufman, Barb Seiter, Patty Smaldone, Nate Tobeckson, Matt Weaver and Frank Wildensee. In a strange twist of fate, the team ran into three friends who ended up shadowing the group during the 5,240 foot ascent. The three, who are seen in several photos on this page, are Nike employees and avid backcountry snowboarders Brad and Cori Wahoske, as well as another Mazama friend named Pete Cairney. -- Top of Page -- Prelude to the Climb: After a Sunday evening of little sleep, the team assembled at 1:30 in the morning at the Huckleberry Inn in Government Camp, Oregon. A strategy meeting ensued and the team headed for the mountain around 2:15 am. After gearing up, signing the climber's register and running into their friends, the team was ready to attack Mount Hood at 3:00 am. But first, a team photo was in order. -- Top of Page -- Weather Conditions: Late May in the Cascade Range can bring a variety of weather. Though the first climb date was washed out a week earlier due to foul conditions, this day started clear and relatively warm for the high elevation. Temperatures at 3:00 am were around freezing, but eventually warmed up into the 40's - even near the lofty summit! It was far from the 88 degrees recorded in Portland, but no one was complaining. -- Top of Page -- The Long Slog to Palmer: From the Wy'East Day Lodge near Timberline Lodge, the team cheerfully departed the 6,000 foot level for Mount Hood's South Side route. The first portion of the climb is a relatively boring slog up to the top of Palmer Snowfield at 8,540 feet. Under a moonless, ink black sky, the stars and planets shone brilliantly and everyone was treated to a clear sighting of the Milky Way. The snow was quite firm and somewhat slick due to the radiational cooling of the clear night, but the team managed to press on without crampons. Following the tracks on the border of the ski area, the headlamps of the climbers lit the nearby snow, as the only other man-made lights on the mountain were from the SnowCats grooming the upper slopes. At 4:45 am, the ambient light of the sunrise began to silhouette the mountain and the eventual goal was in sight. The top of Palmer also came into view, but it still seemed so very far away. Just when everyone needed a lift, the sun and the mountain provided one with an amazing shadow cast on the distant Western horizon. (By the way, this phenomenon is called the "Specter of the Brocken".) Finally, at 5:30 am, the team reached the top of Palmer Snowfield - the first major waypoint on the climb. As a further reward, the sun began to light the Central Oregon Cascades in a brilliant orange glow. -- Top of Page -- Next Stop, Crater Rock: The next portion of the climb required a single-file line in order to kick steps (definition) in the snow. As luck would have it, there were a set of frozen footprints that provided a stable and efficient path from Palmer up to Triangle Moraine at 9,500 feet and to just below Crater Rock at 10,000 feet. Crater Rock is the sentinel that marks the beginning of the volcanic crater of Mount Hood and its other-worldly landscape. -- Top of Page -- Entering the Crater: As the morning sun finally reached the South side of the mountain, the climb continued up a narrow path along a steep slope into the crater of the mountain. To the left sat the huge rock formation and down to the right loomed the Devil's Kitchen and its steaming volcanic vents. In short order, the team would reach the 10,500 foot mark and the final waypoint before the ascent to the summit! -- Top of Page -- Hanging on the Hogsback: After nearly 6 hours of steady climbing, the team reached the Hogsback (definition) inside the crater of the mountain. This brought a rest stop of nearly an hour where the team members refueled and prepared the ropes and other gear for the ascent to the summit. The Hogsback also provided spectacular views of the inside of Crater Rock, West Crater Rim and the Hot Rocks fumaroles (definition). -- Top of Page -- The Ascent to the Summit: This was it! By 9:30 am, the rope teams were ready to tackle the relatively steep and tiring climb up the 700 vertical feet to the summit. One by one, the teams slowly ascended the Hogsback with the assist of crampons and ice axes. Snow conditions were soft due to the warm temperatures and bright sunshine, but it didn't seem to hamper the trip up. Midway up the Hogsback, the straight path took a sharp turn to avoid the Bergschrund (definition), but fortunately the crevasse was very small that day. Shortly, the rope teams passed through the small gap in the crater wall known as the "Pearly Gates" and the summit was just a few minutes away! -- Top of Page -- Reaching the Highest Point in Oregon: Between 10:00 am and 10:30 am, the individual team members each reached the 11,239 foot summit of Mount Hood - the highest point in Oregon! After a tiring, 7-1/2 hour trek up the huge volcano, the team was provided with a stunning panoramic view of Oregon and Washington and the neighboring Cascade Mountains. To the North, the Washington Cascades were in view for the first time that day - though giants Mount Rainier and Mount Adams dwarfed their cousin Mount St. Helens. To the South, the numerous Central Oregon Cascades continued to make an appearance. In fact, you could see for over 130 miles, all the way to Diamond Peak! After many team members posed for hero shots on the summit, the team gathered for the triumphant summit photo. Fortunately, the skies were crystal clear, the wind was not very strong and the sun was bright, so the pictures were top notch. A fine reward for a job well done. -- Top of Page -- Descent and Celebration: Snow conditions were soft going down the Hogsback and there were a few minor falls, but everyone made it safely down into the crater basin. Some climbers skied or boarded down to timberline, others did a bit of glissading (definition) and some just trudged down the mountain. The soft snow made it difficult to do anything well, but the descent still took about half the time of the ascent. By 3:00 pm, after 12 hours of hard work, every climber had made it to Timberline Lodge where a muted celebration ensued. (Hey, everyone was tired. There wasn't going to be a huge party!) A short time later, the team members said their goodbyes and went home to savor their accomplishment and - of course - sleep. -- Top of Page -- |
click photo to enlarge After 2-1/2 hours, the team reaches the top of Palmer Snowfield at 8,540 feet. click photo to enlarge  The team nears Triangle Moraine at 9,500 feet. click photo to enlarge  The early morning sun reaches the top of Crater Rock near 10,000 feet. click photo to enlarge  Matt, Nate, Marc and Stacey look up to the summit from the start of the Hogsback. click photo to enlarge  The team rests on the Hogsback at 10,500 feet. click photo to enlarge  Sulfur laden steam rises from the Hot Rocks inside the "dormant" crater. click photo to enlarge  The rope teams pass through the Pearly Gates just below the summit. click photo to enlarge  The team hangs out on the Mount Hood summit. click photo to enlarge  The "Big 3" Washington Cascade mountains. click photo to enlarge  Mount Rainier and Mount Adams from the summit. click photo to enlarge  A wide shot of the South Side crater of Mount Hood. |