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Glacier Ice Climbing: On Independence Day 2001, my friend, co-worker and Portland Mountain Rescue teammate Steve Rollins invited me to go ice climbing on the Eliot Glacier of Mount Hood. Though I had never partaken in this activity, I felt confident in Steve's expertise and thought I'd try something new. We traveled up several forest roads to an area of the North Side of Mount Hood known as Cloud Cap - at about 5,800 feet in elevation. From there, Steve and I hiked up Cooper Spur to about 7,200 feet and descended onto the foot of Eliot Glacier. After strapping-on crampons and inspecting the glacier for dangers, we carefully made our way to an area where there were large, open crevasses. Usually, these crevasses aren't free of snow until later in the summer, but in the drought year of 2001, July 4th was a perfect time. Steve picked a good one - about 30 feet deep and set-up the ice screws, ropes and the rest of the climbing gear. I just watched! :) Steve, an expert mountaineer, did a few quick climbs while I protected his rope and then it was my turn. Steve lowered me off the "cliff" and I slowly made my way down to a snow bridge about 15 feet down. Getting back up was pretty tough, as my crampons weren't sticking too well and I had a tough time working the unfamiliar ice tools. We only spent an hour or so climbing, as the ice was pretty soft, but that was a good thing, as we ended up getting called to a rescue on the South Side of Mount Hood later that day. Ultimately, the quick little ice climbing trip turned into a 14-hour endurance test of hiking, climbing and rescuing. (But it was fun!) -- Top of Page -- |
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